Video URL: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NNHgcEGDF5Q
the jurogan experience when you know like the wave is about to collapse on you like what do you do i mean you just you just uh you execute your plan that you that you that you have um like for me it was more and i don't do as much big wave stuff as i once did i'm 49 now and trying to mellow out i still love big waves but but it was my life for a while and and at the time i was training like a madman like super physically fit working out six days a week super high like crazy intense um and i was working with like breath coaches to do like breath work and stuff so as soon as i would paddle into the lineup when i was surfing big waves i was breathing to where i was oxygenating my oxygenating my lungs did i say that right and so um you basically try to get as much air into your lungs as possible when you know you're about to eat [ __ ] or go under a really huge wave and then you're it's just a matter of like holding your breath so you just take a giant deep breath right yeah like crazy and you stuff your lungs and everywhere else as much as you can you pack your lungs with as much air as much oh my god shane dorian what the [ __ ] jesus christ that's scary and that's me eating [ __ ] wow but look at this oh my god that's so wild dude and when you eat [ __ ] that hard and it comes down you that hard like how much time does it take before you can get up to the surface it really depends i mean in a really bad situation i had one i had one wipeout uh off the coast of northern california and half moon bay at this wave called mavericks where this chick was on a boat filming and she filmed me eating [ __ ] much like that and i was underwater she was filming my board and it was tombstoning meaning she could only see the top half of my surfboard the bottom half was underwater and i was at the i was the at the end of like a 15 foot leash to my surfboard so my board is about 10 and a half feet long my leash was 15 feet long and then i was at the very bottom of that leash and i was under water for a minute and about
eight seconds a long time it doesn't sound like that long right [ __ ] sounds like a long ass time but i did a lot of breath training or didn't do a lot of breath training but i did some breath training and and like basically your static breath hold like whatever you can do in a pool with a calm heart rate like you can basically under pressure like if your heart rate's going crazy you can you can hold your breath for a quarter of your static breath oh my god so like when i do my static wait when i yeah isn't that scary terrifying but it's powerful because if you know that you have say hypothetically you have a four minute breath hold static then that means under pressure like in a situation like that where your heart rate's really high and you're getting the [ __ ] kicked out of you you should be able to hold your breath for one minute and survive yeah but i don't i can't hold my breath for four minutes i think when we did that thing with uh how long did they blame it how long did their homework we didn't finish it but you did it for quite a long time and he was about to teach us how to do it longer but we didn't get that far they can teach you well i did it longer than everybody else but i still didn't think it was that long over two minutes i think yeah but that's not that but i don't think it was four yeah yeah i think it was like two and a half minutes but vasila lomachenko one of the things he does for every fight is he tries to make his ability to hold his breath longer and for this last one he got to four minutes and 30 seconds which is like two seconds longer than it is the rookie numbers that would imagine for like a free server or a free documentary it's got to be so good for him right it's a huge advantage that lung capacity is is massive with fighting yes for sure but i mean i think he does it also just for mental toughness just like to build just the ability to steal his mind and just [ __ ] just a lot of it is just being like for me it was great because i had that like if if you don't know that if you don't know the science behind holding your
breath for a long time under pressure with a high heart rate then you just go into these wipeouts like [ __ ] i hope i survive i need to hold my breath and when you have that hope type of mindset then your heart rate goes higher and you start burning more oxygen right but if you don't have that hope if that's not a part of your mindset and you're just like [ __ ] i've done the training i know how long i can hold my breath with a high heart rate and and knowing that that number and knowing that you're pretty much never going to be held under water for that long like i could hold my breath the longest i held my breath during this during the the during the breath training thing that i did was five minutes and 34 seconds well hope is not a good thing for any skill no like i hope the ball goes in the net it's not going in i hope i make this shot i'm not making the shot like an archery like you can't hope you hit the vitals you have to know you're gonna hit the vitals when you release that arrow that arrow you have to have [ __ ] hours and hours and hours right hours and hours of training if you're hoping yeah you're hoping you're [ __ ] yeah you're [ __ ] and it's like that with big waves so for me i was like hey i can hold my breath for five minutes and 34 seconds and so i can so so 25 of that i can do that with a high heart rate so that's your your record it's 5 30 four yeah when those free divers get to like seven eight minutes like what are they doing different they just well and i i only did one three day course of like breath training or for four day course so they so they teach you the science behind breath holding and they they they help you with like things to think about to get your static higher and higher and higher give us the cliff notes like what are they essentially um they they have you hold your breath right to start see how you know what your static breath hold is and then they teach you how to how to hold it for longer and so it's almost like meditation like for me like the um you basically think of you don't think of time you don't count the seconds you
think about things that have like like for me it was like they were like okay think about something that's super detailed and go through that process while you're holding your breath so i was in the pool and a guy's timing me and i'm in a wetsuit and i go underwater and i packed my bags to go hunting on lanai oh yeah so i was like hey i so i started holding my breath i went underwater and i was like hey what do i need for my hunting trip on lanai i need i need how many arrows do i need three dozen [Laughter] and then i was like okay get my broad heads then i gotta get my my boots okay now i gotta get my waterproof boots i need to get my like sneaking shoes okay what socks do i need like a super detailed super boring stuff that you know really well and i went through that whole packing thing and then i like literally i got in my truck in my mind drove down to the airport got on the plane flew there got off the plane it was like all this stuff was happening and then i didn't know how much time it passed and then after and then you know you have that involuntary uh urge to breathe you know have you ever held your breath for a long time and all of a sudden you go yeah your stomach starts doing this thing and it's like telling your brain you need to breathe now or else you're going to die but it's not true so when you do these breath holding classes it's really neat because they tell you like when that urge to breathe that tells you you need to be right now or you're going to blackout or die or whatever it is especially if you're underwater it's really scary right and so they teach you to go okay you need to hold through these these these uh these big contractions and so like these contractions are are happening and you're not paying attention to them when you're like in this meditative type of mindset and that's how you can hold your breath for a super long time so when you go through them does it ever get easier when you're you hit those things yeah it's just something you learn how to deal with
it's super uncomfortable right and so yeah you learn to deal with it you learn to go okay this is totally normal i know i can hold through multiple minutes of this this these contracts this urge yeah so then you end up like not even paying attention to them really yeah so but you need to at the end because you get really like spacey and relaxed like like super in this meditative state to where like at the end because they start speeding up those contractions start speeding up and when they get to a certain when they get to a certain um you know when they start happening fast enough you black out so when i was doing this this this underwater training you know you do it with a partner there's a guy watching you all the time so you don't have a shallow water blackout and you don't drown jesus yeah